The explanation of surfing was a lot like skiing. Go over here to catch the lift up and go over here to go down the hill. Do not, I say do not go up the hill where surfers are coming down the hill. Bad idea. He also informed us that today was not a green circle day but a blue square day for the waves. Just what I needed, I really wanted a green circle day.
So out we went into the surf. Paddle , paddle, paddle, paddle, I still have not said this enough, I am not out of breath yet. There were five people in our lessons, two mamas, and 3 kids. So Marlo said ok mamas first, still out of breath and he wanted me to go first, I really needed a rest but no rest for the weary. Marlo grabbed my board guided me over to the blue square waves. Gave me a few words of encouragement, and off I went. He pushed me and then pushed me again and told me to paddle eight times, oooooh noooooo off I went. Paddle , paddle, paddle....... Here we go, whoosh, as I went through all instructions, do I go back, forward, can not remember, going fast, big noise behind me, move forward and go faster to get away from the big wave behind me. Bad idea, move back, going faster, faster, now stand up, right! One my knees, one foot up, ohhhhhhhh, wow cool, wobble, wobble, wobble, get back on my knees, hold on, whoosh, made it. Ok now paddle , paddle, paddle, paddle over to the lift and back out to the surf. What a thrill. Now that was the perfect run.
Haley and Gus were pros, all those dance and soccer lessons paying off. They made it look so easy, they were standing taking the waves on with style.
Dad showed up on a boogie board in the middle of the waves, and now, you have a target to miss, or hit depending on you ability, which of course I was very short on. Marlo pushed me down another wave and Kirk was watching me and not looking at the wave, Marlo was yelling at the boogie boarder to watch out, Kirk turns his head and a wave took him down, but his last view was of me. Now I was having my own challenges, I missed the wave and slid down the backside, which would not of been so bad but a girl had caught the next wave and surfed right into me and wack went her surf board into my head and we tumbled head over heels. Bubble, bubble, splash, splash, and here comes the board to bash me in the head again. After I got out of the surf and I took a break, and laid on the board to catch my breath and hold my head.
That was my only bad one, the next ones I did just fine. Time for Aleve and Excedrin. Headed back home for a nap, boy did I need a nap. Got a pretty blue bruise on the side of my head, matches my eyes.
Headed out for Art Night in Hanapepe. All the stores were open and lots of art, everything decorated for Christmas. All that was missing was the snow. We had Thai food for dinner and took home key lime pie, yummy, yummy. Got a great picture with the family and Christmas tree.
Back home to make a surfer gingerbread house. Thank you Haley!
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